The evolution of the Rolex Submariner from the first model to today.
The Rolex Submariner is undoubtedly one of the most iconic and influential diving watches in history.
As watch enthusiasts, you already know that this model was born as a technical tool for professional divers. Over time, the Rolex Submariner has become a symbol of style, luxury, and reliability.
But what is the evolution of this legendary watch?
How has it changed, and why, from the first model in 1953 to the latest versions?
The First Submariner: 1953 – Ref. 6204
The story of the Submariner begins in 1953 with reference 6204. The Rolex brand was already known for its innovation in the field of waterproof watches when it introduced this model with the goal of creating a reliable watch for diving.
The Submariner Ref. 6204 was designed to meet the requirements of divers, and for this reason, it was capable of withstanding depths of 100 meters (330 feet), a revolutionary feature for the time.
With a 37 mm stainless steel case, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and a simple, legible black dial, it was created to be a robust companion for professional divers.
Its key features made it an instant classic.
- Water resistance up to 100 meters
- Rotating bezel for dive timing
- Automatic movement
- Black dial with luminous indices
The evolution in the 1960s: Ref. 5512 and 5513
In the 1960s, Rolex further improved the Submariner with the introduction of references 5512 and 5513.
These models increased water resistance to 200 meters (660 feet) and marked a step forward in terms of robustness and precision.
The Submariner became increasingly sought after by both professionals and enthusiasts.
The reference 5512 was the first to receive official chronometer certification, a recognition of precision that became a standard for all subsequent Submariners.
Reference 5513, on the other hand, shared many features with the 5512 but did not have the chronometer certification, making it slightly more affordable and much more popular among those looking for a reliable diving watch at a lower price.
The main features of the Submariner models from the 1960s confirmed it as an incredibly reliable and high-performing watch.
- Water resistance increased to 200 meters
- Technical improvements to the movement
- Introduction of chronometer certification on Ref. 5512
- The Submariner Date: The Beginning of a New Era in 1969
One of the most significant changes in the history of the Submariner occurred in 1969 with the introduction of reference 1680, the first Submariner equipped with a date window at 3 o’clock.
This change made it even more adaptable for everyday wear and had a great impact on the watch market.
It was this change that definitively separated the Submariner line into two categories: Submariner (without date) and Submariner Date.
The Submariner Date Ref. 1680 was also the first model to feature the “Submariner” text in red on the dial, a characteristic that is highly sought after by collectors today.
The main features of this new era of the Rolex Submariner became a hallmark of quality, elegance, and reliability.
- Introduction of the date function with Cyclops lens
- Automatic movement with chronometer certification
- Increased commercial appeal of the model
The 1980s and the arrival of Sapphire Crystal: ref. 16800 and 168000
In the 1980s, the Submariner underwent some of its most significant technical changes.
The Ref. 16800 marked the beginning of the sapphire crystal era, which is more scratch-resistant than the acrylic glass previously used.
This model also improved water resistance, this time up to 300 meters (1000 feet), a new standard that persists to this day.
In the second half of the 1980s, the Ref. 168000 was introduced, a temporary version that used a new type of 904L stainless steel, which is more corrosion-resistant than 316L. This change marked another important evolution in the durability and quality of the materials used by Rolex.
The features of the Rolex Submariner in the 1980s left an indelible mark in the history of this iconic model.
- Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
- Water resistance up to 300 meters
- Use of 904L stainless steel in Ref. 168000
2000s: the modern Submariner – ref. 116610
In 2010, Rolex introduced one of the most modern and innovative versions of the Submariner, reference 116610, which featured numerous aesthetic and technical updates that were immediately appreciated by Rolex enthusiasts.
The Cerachrom ceramic bezel, which is much more scratch-resistant than the aluminum bezel of previous versions, represented one of the most notable changes. Other modifications were made to the case, which was slightly modified, with wider lugs, making the watch appear more robust and modern.
The movement used was the caliber 3135, a high-precision automatic movement that had already been extensively tested in previous decades but improved in terms of energy efficiency and shock resistance.
The modifications and improvements made to the Rolex Submariner in the 2000s made it more contemporary and gave this model a stronger and sturdier character.
- Cerachrom ceramic bezel
- Automatic movement caliber 3135
- More massive and modern case design
The most recent evolution: Submariner 2020 – ref. 124060 and 126610
In 2020, Rolex presented the latest evolution of the Submariner line with references 124060 (Submariner without date) and 126610 (Submariner Date).
These models feature a significant update to the movement, switching to the new caliber 3230 for the Submariner and 3235 for the Submariner Date.
Both movements offer improved power reserves of approximately 70 hours and greater shock resistance thanks to the Chronergy escapement system, a proprietary Rolex technology.
The case size has been slightly increased from 40 to 41 mm, while maintaining the elegant proportions that have always characterized the Submariner. The feature that has been preserved at every stage of its evolution is precisely the elegance that perfectly harmonizes with technical features and robustness.
The new version of the Rolex Submariner confirmed the persistence of this model in its ability to meet the demands of today’s market.
- 41 mm case
- Improvements in accuracy and reliability
Rolex Submariner in Malta
As passionate and knowledgeable about luxury watches in Malta, Swiss Watch Club is the kingdom of collectors and anyone looking to enter this fascinating field. Not only a symbol of luxury but also of elegance and reliability, the Rolex brand remains a certainty for those who wish to purchase a fine watch.
Our showcase offers a wide selection of Rolex Submariner watches in Malta.
It is possible to receive detailed advice on Submariner models and their most relevant features that make them highly sought after.
